Burgundy Report Bill Nanson : vintage 2013

Tasted in Milly with Sébastien Dampt,

Although my appointment was for ‘Sébastien Dampt’ the location is really signposted as Domaine Daniel Dampt (the father).

Sebastien was heading to London, later today for his UK importer’s tasting of 2013s – John Armit.

Sebastien owns 7 hectares for his own domaine wines.

Sébastien on 2013:

”The Petit Chablis is usually harvested last so was quite concentrated this year. We didn’t start too early because we didn’t want unripe grapes. We began 1st October and the 1er crus were harvested in ideal conditions, but Saturday the 5th was the big rain and then began the porriture – in the end our yields were about 30% down. “I bottled a little earlier to keep freshness as the acidity at least analytically is low vs say 14, but you would hardly notice in the glass.”

The wines…

The 1ers stay in tank over the winter – the rest are already bottled. This was just a great set of wines

2013 Domaine Sebastien Dampt, Petit Chablis Terroir de Milly

From the end of the Vaillons valley, only 5 metres away are villages vines and the 1er crus less than 100 metres away. Fresh, a little more seashore impression, faintly sweet. Fuller, bigger, sweeter, super-mouth-watering. Brilliant Petit Chablis

2013 Domaine Sebastien Dampt, Chablis

From 5 parcels of vines, the main one near Lys, totaling 5 hectares – but the Lys parcel has 45 yo vines – the older vines provide more ripeness, but the young vines complete the wine with more freshness. A core of ripeness but nice fresh higher tones above. Ouf! Direct, and easily the most mineral wine yet, with slowly growing complexity as it rolls over your tongue – quite silky too. Excellent!

2013 Domaine Sebastien Dampt, Chablis 1er Vaillons

Vines planted by grandfather 50-60 years old A hint of seashore over a good weight of fruit. Quite big, airy fresh, growing intensity, here is a clear mouthwatering sweet acidity . Very yum

2013 Domaine Sebastien Dampt, Chablis 1er Beugnons

A cuvée of 2,100 wax-topped bottles whose elevage was in a concrete ‘egg-shaped’ tank with builtin thermo-regulation. Modest but bright and pretty aromas. Large-scaled, but with only a modest plushness – mainly this majors on complexity and a discrete intensity. The combination is beguiling. Lovely finishing and really long. Not the biggest, baddest, most intense (et cetera) but really a super synthesis of all…

2013 Domaine Sebastien Dampt, Chablis 1er Cote de Lechet

From a single parcel of 50 year-old vines. Quite low yielding… A real seashore nose, perhaps framed with an accent of reduction. Lithe, silky, with fine minerality – quite a contemplative wine despite good acidity and intensity. Really super finish that expands before slowly decaying… Yum!

By Bill Nanson